15 TPI woodworking handsaw with wooden handle on a workbench surrounded by assorted hardwood pieces

What TPI Means on a Handsaw and How to Choose the Right Saw for Your Woodworking Project

  • December 08, 2025
  • |
  • Luca Dal Molin

Understanding TPITeeth Per Inch—is one of the simplest yet most powerful ways to choose the right handsaw for your woodworking projects. Whether you're a beginner buying your first Japanese pull saw or an experienced maker refining your joinery skills, knowing how TPI affects the cut will help you work faster, cleaner, and with far more confidence.

At The Makers Society in Dubai, we work with hand saws every day in our workshop and classes. The difference the correct TPI makes is immediate: your cuts become smoother, the saw tracks straighter, and your overall control improves dramatically.

This guide explains what TPI really means, why it matters, and how to choose the perfect handsaw for your next project.

What Is TPI and Why It Matters in Woodworking

TPI stands for Teeth Per Inch. It describes how many teeth a saw blade has for every inch of length.
This number tells you two important things:

  1. How fast the saw will cut
  2. How smooth the finished cut will be
A close-up of a handsaw blade with a steel ruler placed against the teeth to measure the tooth count per inch.

A saw with low TPI cuts fast and aggressively but leaves a rougher surface.
A saw with high TPI cuts slowly and precisely, producing very smooth, controlled cuts perfect for joinery.

In woodworking, matching the TPI to the task is essential. Using the wrong TPI can cause tear-out, wandering cuts, or excess effort—all of which slow you down and compromise quality.

How TPI Affects Cutting Speed, Smoothness, and Control

Low TPI (6–10 TPI): Fast, aggressive cuts

  • Ideal for ripping along the grain
  • Removes material quickly
  • Best for softwoods or rough dimensioning
  • Produces a rougher surface

These saws shine when speed matters more than finesse.

Medium TPI (12–20 TPI): Balanced cutting

  • Suitable for crosscutting
  • Cleaner results while maintaining good speed
  • Great for general-purpose woodworking
  • More control, less tear-out

For most hobbyists, this range feels comfortable for everyday use.

High TPI (20+ TPI): Precision joinery

  • Designed for dovetails, tenon shoulders, Kumiko, and delicate work
  • Clean, controlled, glass-smooth cuts
  • Ideal for Japanese Dozuki saws
  • Thrives in hardwoods and detail-heavy tasks

This is the territory of fine furniture makers and anyone serious about precision.

A comparison of two pieces of wood; one with a rough cut from a low TPI saw and the other with a smooth cut from a high TPI saw.

Choosing the Perfect Hand Saw for Your Project

Selecting a handsaw becomes easy once you understand how TPI aligns with the job. Here’s a simple guide you can follow:

For Joinery (Dovetails, Tenon Shoulders, Kumiko)

Choose: Dozuki Saw, 20–25 TPI
Why: Thin blade, rigid spine, ultra-clean crosscuts.

For Versatility (Deep Cuts, Both Rip and Crosscut)

Choose: Ryoba Saw, 10–20 TPI
Why: Two edges in one—rip teeth on one side, crosscut teeth on the other.

For Rough Cuts and Fast Stock Removal

Choose: Western Rip Saw, 6–8 TPI
Why: Aggressive teeth for fast cutting along the grain.

For General Use in the Workshop

Choose: High-quality crosscut saw, 12–16 TPI
Why: Clean results while still maintaining speed.

If you’re new to woodworking, starting with a Ryoba gives you incredible flexibility, while investing in a Dozuki immediately elevates your joinery accuracy.

A Japanese Dozuki saw with a fine blade making a precise crosscut in a piece of hardwood for a dovetail joint.

Japanese Pull Saws vs. Western Saws: How TPI Plays a Different Role

Japanese pull saws—like Dozuki, Ryoba, and Kataba—have surged in popularity in the UAE. Their thin, sharp blades offer outstanding control, especially with high-TPI teeth.

A traditional Japanese Ryoba saw and a classic Western-style backsaw laid side-by-side on a workbench, showing their different designs.

Key differences to understand:

Pull Stroke Cutting

Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke, keeping the blade under tension.
This allows for:

  • Thinner blades
  • Less effort
  • Higher precision
  • Reduced kerf waste

Finer TPI Options

Japanese saws often have higher TPI counts suited for detailed work, making them ideal for tasks like Kumiko, fine joinery, and cabinetry.

Western saws, which cut on the push stroke, use stiffer blades and usually have lower TPI counts focused on speed and durability.

Both systems are excellent—the perfect choice depends on your style and goals.

How to Maintain Your Saw for Consistent TPI Performance

Even the best saw loses performance if neglected. Here are simple care tips:

  • Keep the blade clean to prevent resin buildup.
  • Avoid twisting while cutting, which can kink thin blades.
  • Use a saw guide if you are new to joinery.
  • Replace blades regularly on pull saws to maintain accuracy.

At The Makers Society, we rely on replaceable-blade Japanese saws because they offer consistent performance without the need for sharpening.

A close-up of hands cleaning the blade of a Japanese pull saw with a cloth to remove resin and debris.

Final Buying Tips from The Makers Society

Before choosing your next handsaw:

  • Match the TPI to the task: low for speed, high for finesse.
  • Consider the wood type—hardwoods benefit from higher TPI.
  • Decide whether you prefer the pull stroke (precision) or push stroke (power).
  • Invest in quality steel, especially SK85 or similar tool steels.
  • Choose a saw with a replaceable blade if you’re still learning.

If you want to explore your options, browse our curated selection of hand saws—each one tested and trusted in our workshop.

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